Thursday 28th Nov
After driving on the worst road we have travelled since leaving home, we have pulled up in Warooka, known as the "Gateway to the Bottom End" of the Yorke Peninsula. We are in the campgrounds (just a donation required) at the town oval behind the bowling green. There were plenty of bowlers in action today and we were invited to join them for dinner. A nice way to return their hospitality and put a few dollars into the club's coffers.
In the afternoon we took a drive to Yorketown, birthplace of two of our friends but in different places and decades. We knew Leslie Menz in Cobram during the 90's and we met Jan Henschke in Katherine in the 2000's. Yorketown is surrounded by more than 200 salt lakes and at various times they have been mined for their salt. Like many salt lakes in wheatbelt areas, they are vulnerable to pink algae and consequently can acquire a gentle pink hue in certain seasons and under specific climatic conditions.
The bigger part of the local income has been made from sheep, wheat and barley which they are harvesting here at the moment.
On our way back we took a detour to the beautiful long sandy beach and jetty at Point Turton. In the early days limestone was quarried here and shipped for use as flux in the metal smelters of Port Pirie.
Just like Moonta Bay the water is crystal clear and only changes to the deeper colour when the sandy bottom gives way to rocks.
Continuing along that beach we arrived at Flaherty's Beach on Hardwicke Bay. This site enjoys an interesting annual event: The Flaherty's Beach Sandbar Classic Golf Tournament. It is played over two 6 hole courses on this stretch of beach in late summer when the tide is at its lowest. A golf tournament where water hazards are the norm and you're always in a bunker! Would be fun to join in.
Back home we joined the bowlers for curry in the clubrooms where we were made very welcome and we won a prize in the raffle draw. A bottle of Jacob's Creek Cab/Merlot. I'll have to put off my health kick for another 24hrs.
Fri 29th November
We spent the day at Innes National Park at the south western tip of the Yorke Peninsula enjoying some of the best coastal views in SA. This area has experienced a tumultuous maritime history, reminding us of the rugged shipwreck coast between Cape Otway and Port Fairy in Victoria. Twenty two ships have been wrecked along the coast between Edithburgh and Innes National Park, with six ships meeting their fate near Althorpe Island.
We stopped first at Chinaman's Hat Island lookout, named after the distinctively shaped island, for a quick photo stop. The view extends over the marine park sanctuary zone that protects marine habitat.
Then we drove on to the furthest point you can access which is Browns Beach. This is one of South Australia's best salmon fishing areas. We learnt about the life of the WA Salmon who undertake a westwards migration along the southern coast of the state in late summer, where they spawn during autumn months. The Leeuwin Current disperses eggs and larvae to protected coastal nurseries, distributed from the west coast of WA and along the south coast of Australia as far east as Victoria. After spawning, adult fish migrate back to the south coast of WA.
The weathered cliffs, offshore islands and sandy beaches created fabulous backdrops everytime we pulled into a carpark. We also found a number of rare Tammar wallabies; re-introduced to the park after becoming extinct in South Australia. Emu were also a regular sighting, often accompanied by the 'teenage' offspring. Apparently the population of Mallee fowl, another endangered species, is on the rise but we had no luck finding them.
We dropped into Shell Beach and Dolphin Beach and did a short walk at Royston Head.
We are amassing quite a bird list for the day including the Nankeen Kestral and Rock Parrot.
The Yorkes Classic, one of South Australia's most prestigious surfing events, is held annually in Pondalowie Bay so we checked out the action from the Surf Break Carpark. Very calm today. Good temperature for all the walking we are doing but no one could convince me to get in that water. From the campground we could look across to West Cape and its lighthouse.
Then we did a walking loop around West Cape Lighthouse which, along with the lights at Althorpe Island and Cape Spencer, guides ships safely into Spencer Gulf.
At Ethel beach we climbed down the steps to see the wreck of The Ethel which was a 711-tonne, three-masted, iron ship that ran aground during a storm in 1904 while on route to South Africa. The storm drove the ship onto the beach, where it remained intact for many years. A salvage effort was launched but failed and in the mid-1980s the hull finally collapsed. All that remains are some large pieces of rusted iron jutting from the sand. When we got back to the top we were gifted the joy of seeing dolphins surfing. Our training for the hike in Tassie has begun! Though we are in t-shirts here now, not sure we will be in Tassie.
Next we explored the ruins of the historic township of Inneston, abandoned in 1970. In the early 1900's it was a thriving gypsum mining town that was home to about 200 people until mining operations ceased during the Great Depression.Dotted among the mallee and stone ruins of the are several restored buildings where you stay overnight.
The Cape Spencer Lighthouse walk gave us nearly 360-degree coastal views of the spectacular cliffs, as well as across Investigator Strait to Althorpe Island where so many came to grief.
Our final stop was the loop walk to Stenhouse Bay Lookout near the entry point to the park. It took us around the headland above the bay where we saw glimpses into the mining history of the area. The jetty is heritage listed and we came across an old rusted locomotive and wagons as well as a rubbish site from the early 1900s. In those days the rubbish was collected in a pile on the clifftop and then shoved over the edge, into the sea. Out of sight, out of mind. Some people haven't really moved on, have they?
What a huge day! Only 26 kms from the front gate to Brown's Beach but there was so much to explore in between. Over 30 bird species including a few new sightings. We drove home thankful that the threatening clouds had not opened up on us all day, only to discover it had rained in Warooka. I don't think anyone there would have minded though; all the gardens look pretty thirsty.
Saturday 30th Nov
Woke during the night and couldn't get back to sleep thinking about the drought in Eastern Aust and how it affects our planned trip next year. About leaving the van in Watervale as planned and driving home without it. About flying to Tassie instead of driving back down and picking up the van. So many thoughts swirling in my head. I mentioned it to Eric in the morning and he has been thinking the same things. Time to recalibrate. We only have a few days to make a final decision.
It had rained overnight but the morning is bright with no wind so we will just wait for it to warm up a bit before venturing out. There is no need to rush as Edithburgh is not far; about 40kms. Edithburgh has been mentioned to us a few times by locals as a picturesque spot to stop. It used to be the state's third busiest port, shipping salt, but it is now appreciated as a popular family holiday destination. No one mentioned it was also one of the windiest places in Australia, we learnt that later in the day.
Driving there we traversed areas burnt out by those fires 10 days ago when we were on the ferry, crossing back from Kangaroo Island. The fire jumped containment lines early the following morning, forcing crews to leave the front and focus on protecting the town of Edithburgh. Residents had been evacuated and sent to the beach or the local bowling club. We passed a number of homes that have been lost, farm machinery destroyed and many hectares of cereal crops that are gone. In the picture you can see wind turbines. It was while we were visiting the viewing area of this wind farm 3kms from town that we learnt just how strong and consistent the winds are around here. Glad to see they are being harnessed for some good. The Wattle Point Wind Farm has 55 turbines which generate enough renewable energy for up to 55,000 average Australian homes. More importantly it is now connected to a storage battery for improved network security. SA seems to be well ahead of the rest of the states in terms of renewable energy uptake. Good for them.
In the afternoon we took a walk around the 17.5 ha Native Flora Reserve just on the edge of the town centre. It was instigated by a local man, Dev Patterson who must have had a bit of a sense of humour, and is maintained by local volunteers. With over 2km of walking trails, and featuring over 1,000 native plants it is a wonderful asset to the community, not to mention the native birds. We enjoyed the walk but didn't see many birds on that occasion.
In the evening I rang Denise and Col to break the news that we wouldn't be dropping the van at their place for a few months, but instead taking it home with us. Now the pressure is off Col to get that coat rail job finished. We had a lovely tandoori chicken dinner cooked in the oven that helped warm the van. The wind is still up and the clouds are banking to the east. Tomorrow's forecast is for winds W to SW 33 to 42 km/h and 60% chance of rain. Top temp of 18 deg C. That is the bleakest we have had since leaving home. We need to start heading north!
Sunday 1st Dec
Well the weather forecast was spot on. It rained overnight but has mostly held off today. At about 2pm we reached our max of 18 deg but it felt a lot cooler. For instance the app is telling me right now it is 14.8 and falling but feels like 7.2. We agree. Eric has been back under the doona since late afternoon. We've had wind all day and gusts of up to 46km/h which rocks the van about. A mostly indoor day.
I did manage a walk for about an hour along the Walk the Yorke route towards Sultana Point and back. I started at the jetty where a few dedicated (or crazy) individuals were fishing and then followed the Mosaic Trail section which follows the coast.
The trail includes interpretive signs and 94 nautical themed mosiacs. A local artist had a vision to mosaic the rocks along the foreshore to add interest to the natural beauty of the walk and encouraged members of the community to get involved. These encouraged me to continue in the gusty conditions when I might otherwise have turned back earlier.
I finished a crotchet project yesterday and started another one today. We read, sorted photos and had a very restful day. At least if we have to be holed-up somewhere we have power and wifi here, so not all bad. Heading north in the morning. Looking forward to not having to wear so many layers.
After driving on the worst road we have travelled since leaving home, we have pulled up in Warooka, known as the "Gateway to the Bottom End" of the Yorke Peninsula. We are in the campgrounds (just a donation required) at the town oval behind the bowling green. There were plenty of bowlers in action today and we were invited to join them for dinner. A nice way to return their hospitality and put a few dollars into the club's coffers.
In the afternoon we took a drive to Yorketown, birthplace of two of our friends but in different places and decades. We knew Leslie Menz in Cobram during the 90's and we met Jan Henschke in Katherine in the 2000's. Yorketown is surrounded by more than 200 salt lakes and at various times they have been mined for their salt. Like many salt lakes in wheatbelt areas, they are vulnerable to pink algae and consequently can acquire a gentle pink hue in certain seasons and under specific climatic conditions.
The bigger part of the local income has been made from sheep, wheat and barley which they are harvesting here at the moment.
On our way back we took a detour to the beautiful long sandy beach and jetty at Point Turton. In the early days limestone was quarried here and shipped for use as flux in the metal smelters of Port Pirie.
Just like Moonta Bay the water is crystal clear and only changes to the deeper colour when the sandy bottom gives way to rocks.
Continuing along that beach we arrived at Flaherty's Beach on Hardwicke Bay. This site enjoys an interesting annual event: The Flaherty's Beach Sandbar Classic Golf Tournament. It is played over two 6 hole courses on this stretch of beach in late summer when the tide is at its lowest. A golf tournament where water hazards are the norm and you're always in a bunker! Would be fun to join in.
Back home we joined the bowlers for curry in the clubrooms where we were made very welcome and we won a prize in the raffle draw. A bottle of Jacob's Creek Cab/Merlot. I'll have to put off my health kick for another 24hrs.
Fri 29th November
We spent the day at Innes National Park at the south western tip of the Yorke Peninsula enjoying some of the best coastal views in SA. This area has experienced a tumultuous maritime history, reminding us of the rugged shipwreck coast between Cape Otway and Port Fairy in Victoria. Twenty two ships have been wrecked along the coast between Edithburgh and Innes National Park, with six ships meeting their fate near Althorpe Island.
We stopped first at Chinaman's Hat Island lookout, named after the distinctively shaped island, for a quick photo stop. The view extends over the marine park sanctuary zone that protects marine habitat.
Then we drove on to the furthest point you can access which is Browns Beach. This is one of South Australia's best salmon fishing areas. We learnt about the life of the WA Salmon who undertake a westwards migration along the southern coast of the state in late summer, where they spawn during autumn months. The Leeuwin Current disperses eggs and larvae to protected coastal nurseries, distributed from the west coast of WA and along the south coast of Australia as far east as Victoria. After spawning, adult fish migrate back to the south coast of WA.
The weathered cliffs, offshore islands and sandy beaches created fabulous backdrops everytime we pulled into a carpark. We also found a number of rare Tammar wallabies; re-introduced to the park after becoming extinct in South Australia. Emu were also a regular sighting, often accompanied by the 'teenage' offspring. Apparently the population of Mallee fowl, another endangered species, is on the rise but we had no luck finding them.
We are amassing quite a bird list for the day including the Nankeen Kestral and Rock Parrot.
At Ethel beach we climbed down the steps to see the wreck of The Ethel which was a 711-tonne, three-masted, iron ship that ran aground during a storm in 1904 while on route to South Africa. The storm drove the ship onto the beach, where it remained intact for many years. A salvage effort was launched but failed and in the mid-1980s the hull finally collapsed. All that remains are some large pieces of rusted iron jutting from the sand. When we got back to the top we were gifted the joy of seeing dolphins surfing. Our training for the hike in Tassie has begun! Though we are in t-shirts here now, not sure we will be in Tassie.
Next we explored the ruins of the historic township of Inneston, abandoned in 1970. In the early 1900's it was a thriving gypsum mining town that was home to about 200 people until mining operations ceased during the Great Depression.Dotted among the mallee and stone ruins of the are several restored buildings where you stay overnight.
Saturday 30th Nov
Woke during the night and couldn't get back to sleep thinking about the drought in Eastern Aust and how it affects our planned trip next year. About leaving the van in Watervale as planned and driving home without it. About flying to Tassie instead of driving back down and picking up the van. So many thoughts swirling in my head. I mentioned it to Eric in the morning and he has been thinking the same things. Time to recalibrate. We only have a few days to make a final decision.
It had rained overnight but the morning is bright with no wind so we will just wait for it to warm up a bit before venturing out. There is no need to rush as Edithburgh is not far; about 40kms. Edithburgh has been mentioned to us a few times by locals as a picturesque spot to stop. It used to be the state's third busiest port, shipping salt, but it is now appreciated as a popular family holiday destination. No one mentioned it was also one of the windiest places in Australia, we learnt that later in the day.
In the afternoon we took a walk around the 17.5 ha Native Flora Reserve just on the edge of the town centre. It was instigated by a local man, Dev Patterson who must have had a bit of a sense of humour, and is maintained by local volunteers. With over 2km of walking trails, and featuring over 1,000 native plants it is a wonderful asset to the community, not to mention the native birds. We enjoyed the walk but didn't see many birds on that occasion.
Sunday 1st Dec
Well the weather forecast was spot on. It rained overnight but has mostly held off today. At about 2pm we reached our max of 18 deg but it felt a lot cooler. For instance the app is telling me right now it is 14.8 and falling but feels like 7.2. We agree. Eric has been back under the doona since late afternoon. We've had wind all day and gusts of up to 46km/h which rocks the van about. A mostly indoor day.
I did manage a walk for about an hour along the Walk the Yorke route towards Sultana Point and back. I started at the jetty where a few dedicated (or crazy) individuals were fishing and then followed the Mosaic Trail section which follows the coast.
The trail includes interpretive signs and 94 nautical themed mosiacs. A local artist had a vision to mosaic the rocks along the foreshore to add interest to the natural beauty of the walk and encouraged members of the community to get involved. These encouraged me to continue in the gusty conditions when I might otherwise have turned back earlier.
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