In Longreach we set up camp in the van park right across from the Qantas Founders Museum. From this entrance to town the unmistakable symbol of the airline is clear to see under a massive Airpark Roof enclosure that dominates the skyline. As we parked so did a number of brolga, right beside us, and they are very at home here in our van park.
Next was a trip into town to resupply the pantry and access wifi. This required a rest on the verandah of the Longreach Tavern. I like the name of the other hotel in town. It’s the Birdcage as it is situated on the corner of Duck and Galah Streets. Actually, we’ve quickly realised all the streets are named after birds. Before returning to the van we took a drive out to the Golf Club but quickly decided we are spoilt by grass covered fairways and green greens in Darwin and will skip the possibility of a game here. Our stay here is just a bit early for the Outback Qld Masters which begins in Biloela and finishes in Longreach with $1M hole in one up for grabs. That is held 23rd-25th July. We fuelled up ($1.49).
Thursday 15th July
Our first warm night since Charters Towers, we both had to ditch the doona at times to cool down. Overnight was a mild 16 and its predicted to get to 33 today. In the morning Heather and I went birding in the most reliable site in any town; the water treatment facility. Then we met the boys in town for coffee and a bit of town orientation. Longreach is known as the Heart of the Outback and has a number of beautifully restored or preserved buildings that date back to the 1920’s.
Some of those who attended the Big Red Bash in Birdsville have caught up with us now and from all accounts it was a huge success and very well run. Our friends Bob and Barb and his bandmate were amongst the crowd of 10,000 and loved it. On the way to and fro they played at Betoota Pub and now have a growing fan base according to our neighbours here.
In the afternoon Michael and Eric toured the Qantas Founders Museum which honours the vision of those that first met in 1920 and established the service in 1922 to connect the remote and isolated in outback Qld with the NT. Eric was very impressed by the endeavour of our forefathers. Would our generation have achieved so much in such primitive conditions? Hudson Fysh and Paul McGuinness met while flying during WW1 and were bored when they returned but inspired by the air race from England to Australia. They didn't even have a plane so couldn't enter but were given the task to map airstrips all the way from here to Darwin which involved driving cross country for over 2000 miles in a T Model ford where no roads existed. As a result, strips were developed at places like Boroloola, Daly Waters and Katherine to name a few. They faced many challenges, not least becoming bogged 23 times which required the help of Aboriginals or station horses to haul them out. With the help of a financier and an aircraft mechanic the four men eventually began Qantas.
Meanwhile Heather and I dropped into the Arts and Crafts Gallery which is housed in the original ambulance station. This year the building celebrates its centenary. Downstairs is occupied by the active spinners, potters, painters and fibre artists etc while upstairs is the gallery and a small museum.
Friday 16th July
We were required to move sites this morning but once that was done we found we had a day without commitments, so decided to do a day trip to Ilfracombe, something we thought we had missed, just 30 kms back to the east.
The 12 mile is a reservoir built just that far out of town. It demonstrates the incredible ingenuity the locals had for solving problems. In the 1890’s thousands of naturally formed flagstones were precisely placed together to form the waterproof walls using a method called stone pitching. It is believed Chinese tradesmen may have been employed to work on the project. It was a favoured Cobb and Co. watering hole.
Back in town Heather and I visited an antiques and collectables display housed in the old church while Michael and Eric took a closer look at the Machinery Mile, a line-up of machines and engines used on local stations and sometimes adapted for local conditions.
Then we headed for lunch at the Wellshot Hotel. This place hasn’t changed much since it was first established except for the tourist décor, somewhat like the Daly Waters Pub. There are banknotes pinned to the ceiling as well as well-worn Akubras and other assorted headwear.
After taking up our places at the bar, we shared burgers in the shady beer garden but the wind blew up while we were there. Glad we didn't need to top-up Michael's fuel tank here as its a bit expensive ($1.84). Driving back to Longreach the wind continued and the road ahead was constantly crossed by tumbleweeds.
In the evening we attended the Luminescent Longreach show at the Qantas Museum which was a very impressive sound and light show telling the story of Qantas beamed onto the Boeing 747 aircraft fuselage.
Saturday 17th July
After breakfast and packing up the van we parked it across the road at the Stockman's Hall Of Fame 'to better understand the life of those who drove our dinner from paddock to plate'. This place underwent a huge renovation earlier this year with new exhibits and and a stop-over in Longreach wouldn't be complete without visiting. The tour began by watching the Stockman's Tale film then you take a self-guided wander of the museum galleries.
Then you finish with Lachie Cossor's live show. We thoroughly enjoyed it.
Thank God you found a coffee shop was starting to get worried. I was thinking that maybe Eric should have packed a safari suit for this part of the trip.
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