Another one by James Blundell.
Kimberley Moon is shining on me,
Soft and yellow on high
In that indigo sky
Smiling gently.
Thursday 11 July
The birds in the tree just outside the window woke me early and I had to get up to identify them. Then I decided it was a good morning for a shower since I can’t remember when I had the last one. We haven’t used the one in the van yet, instead taking advantage of the ones when we have stayed in parks. Walking across to them, I was taken by the sight of a swag on the back of a Hilux. Could I see myself nimbly clambering up and down out of that? It reminded me of a challenge we set the boys when we travelled these parts 20 yrs ago. They were each to consider all the options others were travelling in and then tell us what they thought would best suit them. It kept them (and us) amused for 3 months. Below is another option – bus with annex and Land Cruiser with boat. I can’t imagine what they would spend on fuel! And 10 wheels turning!
We find ourselves contemplating the choices we have made too. Joy is 21’ long with an en-suite that we really don’t use much; a twinkle in the middle of the night, otherwise the park toilet block or behind a tree. Haven’t used the shower, can’t see the point when the flies aren’t that bad yet:) Eric does not enjoy emptying the canister and I don’t know how. Haven’t used the washing machine; we’ve found a lidded bucket of soapy water and the kms travelled each day as the agitator quite adequate for the two of us. Towing and parking all that added length has to be weighed up against the comforts that we might use someday. Perhaps I should try the shower to see how good it is. Not yet though, just had one. Joy is also classified as semi-off road however the first bit of corrugated road we struck shook the shit out of her (pardon the expression). See earlier post ‘Once Upon A Time in the West’ for details. Eric has now done some repairs to the drawers and sliding door and so far they have all stayed in place. Joy comes with a 12v satellite tv and aerial but we haven’t found the need to watch it to date so it is now wrapped up under the bed. On the other-hand the awning is awesome. And Eric thinks the bed is fabulous, we're both sleeping well.
Today we made it to Derby, home of Australia’s highest tides. After setting up we went to the jetty café for lunch and then a wander. The tide was out at 1.4 m, this evening it will be back in at 7.3 m but that will be after dark unfortunately. The maximum tide level recorded was 10.8 m and a minimum height of -0.8 m. That’s in excess of 11 m of water surging up King Sound and across the tidal mudflats that almost surround the township. Surely we can use this constant change to create a sustainable energy source.
We dropped into the Norval Art Gallery which was very interesting. Mark Norval and his wife were sent here after graduating from Teachers’ College, not even knowing where Derby was. He has been here ever since. For 16 years Mark taught art at Derby District High School before moving to the local Mowanjum Arts Centre. He exhibits and sells his own work but his gallery is overflowing with local artists’ work too. Oh, and you should see his record collection! It didn’t take long for he and Eric to start discussing Black Sabbath.
What I found most interesting was the information on display about the ‘Bradshaw Art’. In 2002 we drove the Gibb River Rd and up onto the Mitchell Plateau in convoy with our friends Jean and Phil. Jean had done her research about the so called ‘Bradshaw Art’ and we went off track finding many examples amongst the rocky outcrops, no signage, no protection. We were staggered that this natural gallery of fabulous art was so easy to find really, yet so open to disrespectful humans who would feel the need to touch it or even paint over it. So different to what we had seen in Kakadu, for example. At that time we were led to believe that these figures were not painted by aboriginal people, no one claimed them. They were called Bradshaw Paintings because he was the first white man to discover them in 1890. Truth is, they should be referred to as Gyorn Gyorn (pronounced gee yorn gee yorn) and many aboriginal people are offended by the non-aboriginal term as Joseph Bradshaw was not a nice human being. The figures have been carbon dated to around 20,000 yrs old, though some archaeologists believe them to be much older. Either way, they are some of the oldest visual artworks in existence. Many body adornments and headwear decorations on these figures are used in ceremonial dance today and it is generally accepted that the artists are related to the aboriginal people who reside in Northern Australia today. The figures are similar in some respects to the Mimi figures found in the Northern Territory which date back to 50,000 yrs. Gyorn Gyorn and Wandjina paintings are often found together but the Gyorn Gyorn are much older, Wandjina culture developed around 3-6 thousand years ago. It was a Wandjina figure created here at the Mowanjum Art Centre, that featured in the opening ceremony of the Sydney 2000 Olympics.
Then we viewed the Kimberley Art Prize Exhibition in the Town Hall. Neither of us were particularly taken by the sculpture of a raptor that won the overall prize but there were plenty of impressive entries. I loved the resting cattle and Eric’s favourite was of a man carving a boab nut. It was 'Contemplation', the image above by Mark that won in 2017.
In the late afternoon we walked down to the edge of the park to see the sun setting through a sculpture that was created by Mark, inspired by his ‘Contemplation’ theme. Other instalments are in the making, some by students at the local High School, and it is envisioned that there will be a trail of these, positioned on the edge of the mudflats. Worth coming back to see sometime.
We've hit Kununurra on Show Day. Resisted the urge to check it out though, it moves on to Darwin and hits town the weekend after school goes back. The Farm is entered in the Community Garden section. We will also be sending in a basket of produce. Reminds me I must ask the volunteers to check the tomatoes and bush tucker trees are getting enough water.
This time we have opted to stay in the Kimberleyland Waterfront Holiday Park. Again it is on Lake Kununurra but this time on the green lawns alongside Lily Creek Lagoon. In the afternoon we sat by the lake enjoying the parade of colours as the sun moved lower across the water. In the River Red Gum beside us a pair of Rainbow bee-eaters put on an entertaining acrobatic display. They were just one of the 18 species of birds we saw without taking a step from our bench.
Kimberley Moon is shining on me,
Soft and yellow on high
In that indigo sky
Smiling gently.
Thursday 11 July
The birds in the tree just outside the window woke me early and I had to get up to identify them. Then I decided it was a good morning for a shower since I can’t remember when I had the last one. We haven’t used the one in the van yet, instead taking advantage of the ones when we have stayed in parks. Walking across to them, I was taken by the sight of a swag on the back of a Hilux. Could I see myself nimbly clambering up and down out of that? It reminded me of a challenge we set the boys when we travelled these parts 20 yrs ago. They were each to consider all the options others were travelling in and then tell us what they thought would best suit them. It kept them (and us) amused for 3 months. Below is another option – bus with annex and Land Cruiser with boat. I can’t imagine what they would spend on fuel! And 10 wheels turning!
We find ourselves contemplating the choices we have made too. Joy is 21’ long with an en-suite that we really don’t use much; a twinkle in the middle of the night, otherwise the park toilet block or behind a tree. Haven’t used the shower, can’t see the point when the flies aren’t that bad yet:) Eric does not enjoy emptying the canister and I don’t know how. Haven’t used the washing machine; we’ve found a lidded bucket of soapy water and the kms travelled each day as the agitator quite adequate for the two of us. Towing and parking all that added length has to be weighed up against the comforts that we might use someday. Perhaps I should try the shower to see how good it is. Not yet though, just had one. Joy is also classified as semi-off road however the first bit of corrugated road we struck shook the shit out of her (pardon the expression). See earlier post ‘Once Upon A Time in the West’ for details. Eric has now done some repairs to the drawers and sliding door and so far they have all stayed in place. Joy comes with a 12v satellite tv and aerial but we haven’t found the need to watch it to date so it is now wrapped up under the bed. On the other-hand the awning is awesome. And Eric thinks the bed is fabulous, we're both sleeping well.
Today we made it to Derby, home of Australia’s highest tides. After setting up we went to the jetty café for lunch and then a wander. The tide was out at 1.4 m, this evening it will be back in at 7.3 m but that will be after dark unfortunately. The maximum tide level recorded was 10.8 m and a minimum height of -0.8 m. That’s in excess of 11 m of water surging up King Sound and across the tidal mudflats that almost surround the township. Surely we can use this constant change to create a sustainable energy source.
We dropped into the Norval Art Gallery which was very interesting. Mark Norval and his wife were sent here after graduating from Teachers’ College, not even knowing where Derby was. He has been here ever since. For 16 years Mark taught art at Derby District High School before moving to the local Mowanjum Arts Centre. He exhibits and sells his own work but his gallery is overflowing with local artists’ work too. Oh, and you should see his record collection! It didn’t take long for he and Eric to start discussing Black Sabbath.
What I found most interesting was the information on display about the ‘Bradshaw Art’. In 2002 we drove the Gibb River Rd and up onto the Mitchell Plateau in convoy with our friends Jean and Phil. Jean had done her research about the so called ‘Bradshaw Art’ and we went off track finding many examples amongst the rocky outcrops, no signage, no protection. We were staggered that this natural gallery of fabulous art was so easy to find really, yet so open to disrespectful humans who would feel the need to touch it or even paint over it. So different to what we had seen in Kakadu, for example. At that time we were led to believe that these figures were not painted by aboriginal people, no one claimed them. They were called Bradshaw Paintings because he was the first white man to discover them in 1890. Truth is, they should be referred to as Gyorn Gyorn (pronounced gee yorn gee yorn) and many aboriginal people are offended by the non-aboriginal term as Joseph Bradshaw was not a nice human being. The figures have been carbon dated to around 20,000 yrs old, though some archaeologists believe them to be much older. Either way, they are some of the oldest visual artworks in existence. Many body adornments and headwear decorations on these figures are used in ceremonial dance today and it is generally accepted that the artists are related to the aboriginal people who reside in Northern Australia today. The figures are similar in some respects to the Mimi figures found in the Northern Territory which date back to 50,000 yrs. Gyorn Gyorn and Wandjina paintings are often found together but the Gyorn Gyorn are much older, Wandjina culture developed around 3-6 thousand years ago. It was a Wandjina figure created here at the Mowanjum Art Centre, that featured in the opening ceremony of the Sydney 2000 Olympics.
Then we viewed the Kimberley Art Prize Exhibition in the Town Hall. Neither of us were particularly taken by the sculpture of a raptor that won the overall prize but there were plenty of impressive entries. I loved the resting cattle and Eric’s favourite was of a man carving a boab nut. It was 'Contemplation', the image above by Mark that won in 2017.
In the late afternoon we walked down to the edge of the park to see the sun setting through a sculpture that was created by Mark, inspired by his ‘Contemplation’ theme. Other instalments are in the making, some by students at the local High School, and it is envisioned that there will be a trail of these, positioned on the edge of the mudflats. Worth coming back to see sometime.
Friday 12 July
We got away pretty early, no records broken, but in good time considering the drive ahead. We were aiming to get to Mary Pool, a free camp on the banks of the Mary River, between Fitzroy Crossing and Hall’s Creek.
There's not a lot to look at out the windows on this stretch; very flat and very dry. As it turned out the driving was easy and we were still feeling fresh at Hall’s Creek so we pushed on to Spring Creek, just short of the Bungle Bungles Caravan Park where we camped on the outward journey. At Hall’s Creek I just had to get out and take photos of the IGA. Hall’s Creek doesn’t have a lot of photo opportunities, not a pretty location and most people would not choose to stop at all, but this business has done it’s best to impress the passing traffic. And the local council have spruced up the rubbish bins since we were last here. Neither of these towns are located within the Kimberley region or enjoy the opportunities that might afford. Instead, they lie to the north of the Great Sandy Desert with its isolation and harsh conditions.
We eventually found that the Spring Creek Parking Bay was full to overflowing so we backtracked just a kilometre. Here we had a Parking Bay to ourselves and set up on a site with ample room to light a fire for our jaffle dinner. We're back on Mabel Downs Station again. What could be better than this? Beautiful uninterrupted view, later a Kimberley moon, abundant stars and enough smoke to keep the insects at bay if there were any. Delicious dinner! Eric was ecstatic about the network too, a better signal here than we have had at Roebuck Bay or Derby. Today was our longest drive to date, just over 600 kms but we were still set up by 4.30 with plenty of time before the sun went down.
Saturday 13 July
As soon as we approached Warmun the terrain around us got more interesting. The morning light on the ranges made for a very pleasant drive. Not far to go today and we had reached Kununurra by morning tea time. Just had to keep our eye out for stray cattle as large sections of the road is un-fenced. You often see road kill, mostly wallaby, but the occasional cow too and one of them would do serious damage to any vehicle. Love these doe-eyed brahman-cross beasts though. We often see mobs of them milling around the bores.
This time we have opted to stay in the Kimberleyland Waterfront Holiday Park. Again it is on Lake Kununurra but this time on the green lawns alongside Lily Creek Lagoon. In the afternoon we sat by the lake enjoying the parade of colours as the sun moved lower across the water. In the River Red Gum beside us a pair of Rainbow bee-eaters put on an entertaining acrobatic display. They were just one of the 18 species of birds we saw without taking a step from our bench.
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