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Douglas Daly Initiation Weekend

Saturday March 30
So this morning we woke to the sound of birdsong supported by the gentle hum of the site 24/7 generator at Douglas Daly Tourist Park. As would have it, at this time of the year, we are the only tourists.  There are a number of Sterling NT workers contracted to maintain the roadsides staying here in dongas (charming NT colloquialism for demountables) this week, but other than that, the campground is all ours. 

This is our first venture out in Ted and Joy and it didn’t start well when Eric fell ill mid-week. Then in preparation we tried to cool down the fridge a few days before we left only to discover we needed a 15amp extension cord and 10 > 15amp adapter, no one told us about this. Who knew houses ran on 10amps while caravans were set up for 15amps? (Everyone else probably.) Another trip to the shops, another hundred dollars. That evening I went out to dinner with some friends who have lived for years on cattle stations. When I mentioned to him what we had been up to he just laughed and said they used an angle grinder to file down the oversized pin at the input point of the van so that a regular extension cord would fit. Hmm, not advisable I'd suggest. At least we had it sorted before we left home and didn’t turn up out in the sticks with no power. Our van is set up to be off grid but one thing at a time, there’s a lot to learn we are discovering. 

When Eric was worse on Friday morning I was wondering if we would even get out of the back yard. Fortunately, by the time I got home from work he was feeling well enough so after a quick dip in the pool I threw some clothes in a bag and we hitched Joy to Ted. It turned out to be just before 3pm when all the school traffic was clogging the local roads. Typical. Then about 5 kms down the road we got a symbol on the dash we hadn’t seen before. Where’s the Ford manual, on the kitchen bench. Oops! Not to worry, soon the computer in the car told us what to do, top up the Adblue in the next 800kms, which is something to do with diesel emissions. We stopped at every servo we passed including Adelaide River but they were either sold out or didn’t stock it. Not to worry, we will be back in town before 800kms. Otherwise the journey the was uneventful and Ted seemed quite comfortable sitting on just under 100kph. I’ll need to learn to knit in the car though with the distances we cover up here. We chewed through the fuel so will need to consider efficiencies like not using the air con when it is cooler and dropping the speed down a touch. 

Just before Hayes Creek we turned off the highway and onto Dorat Road. This is a much narrower road that winds between the hills rather than through cuttings. I was glad we only met one other vehicle on this stretch. Dorat Rd used to be the only road between Katherine and Darwin and we have been told it took 5 hours to do a journey that now takes 3. DD is about midway between Darwin and Katherine. It was still daylight as we approached Douglas Daly which was a good thing as we saw our first sighting of an Australian Bustard in many years and also had a clear view of the wallabies and ‘roos out getting a feed before nightfall. Unfortunately, Sandy who arrived closer to 7pm, was not so lucky and struck one with her right front fender. Luckily, not so much damage that she couldn’t complete the trip.

When we pulled up we had the pick of the van sites which were all green and shady. There were lots of firsts as we put up the awning, filled the water tank, flushed the toilet and heated the kettle on the gas stove. Then it was time to enjoy a cold drink and watch the evening descend. Once Sandy, Squiz, Randall and Di arrived we joined them for dinner in the bistro. They are all staying in the cabins on the other side of the park beside the pool. 

We woke after a good night’s sleep and thankfully Eric is feeling better, not fantastic but improving. We went for a walk through the end of the park and into the Douglas/Daly Esplanade Conservation Area. There are six well spaced camping sites in here right on the banks of the Douglas River which is fed by the hot springs and tumbles over many rock ledges creating rapids and whirlpools along the way. Listening to the sound of the flowing water and the birdsong made it a very pleasant walk but we were watchful in case of encountering wild pigs. At about 2kms we came to The Arches and Waterfall. As the names suggest, the water has cut its way through the rock to form an archway and on the other side is a beautiful pool with a sandy beach. 

We resisted the urge to take a dip. It would be fabulous to float downstream from Camp 3 to The Arches between the pandanus and paperbarks but the chances of meeting a croc make it too risky to enjoy. Once we had returned we had breakfast then joined the cabin dwellers and enjoyed a long dip in the lovely shady pool.

The shared menu for this weekend meant that lunch was a wonderful spread of different salads and cold cuts then fruit. One of our responsibilities was the supply of the bread rolls which we had planned to buy on the way but then totally forgot about with trying to find the Adblue. Not to worry, no one went hungry. 

Everyone then drifted off to read, do crosswords or blog etc. through the heat of the day. We sat under our awning with the fan oscillating. Next upgrade is to rig up a dripping bottle so we can enjoy the mist. I'm onto it; we either need an intravenous drip or something similar that the brew shop supplies for people who have their own stills. Thank's Eric for that clue, knew one day the experience of owning that still would come in handy. And also Socheat in Siem Reap for the original idea.

After the heat had abated we were joined by Squiz and Randall and we walked back to The Arches. Both these folk had camped down here numerous times with their friends and families in the days of yore, camping right on the sandy banks, swinging off the rope-swing and throwing a line in. That was when the crocs were still too wary of guns to come so close to people. Of course with all the intervening years and high water events things have changed a lot. There were lots of good memories shared. 



Dinner was another elaborate affair with everyone pitching in. We enjoyed a main course followed by dessert supplemented with sparklers to celebrate Sandy’s birthday which took place this last week. Fortunately Sandy, Squiz ad Randall had solved all the problems of the world over a few nightcaps last night so tonight we could just relax and enjoy the spectacle of the brilliant stars. 

Sunday 31st March
We shared omelettes and hot cross buns for breakfast and then the cabin dwellers hit the road and left us to visit the Hot Springs and then Butterfly Gorge Nature Park, if the road is accessible, at our leisure. Turns out the road is closed even before the hot springs so we can't visit either. We've visited the hot springs before with the boys when they were much younger. What we discovered then was that not all hot springs are the same, these are much hotter than Mataranka or Katherine. Here the water can reach temperatures of up to 60deg C so you need to swim downstream where the hot water has merged with the flow of the river. 

The Butterfly Gorge is well known for the 1000’s of butterflies that seek shelter in the crevices of the sheer rock faces of this beautiful gorge. You can swim in the rock pools and marvel at the paperbarks that tower above you. But that will have to wait for another time.

Instead we decided to slip out to Ooloo Crossing then return and pack up and return home today too. Oolloo Crossing is one of the NT government’s conservation areas. At times you may be able to cross the Daly River here but the road just terminates on the other side at the station which is private property so no need. The Daly is an expansive river system which captures the tropical monsoons that drain from as far afield as Arnhem Land. Its origins start where the Katherine and Flora Rivers meet. Its one of the Territory’s largest and more popular waterways for recreational fishing and well known for it’s crocodile inhabitants. The Daly is home to two annual and major fishing competitions; The Barra Classic and The Barra Nationals. This Oolloo Crossing is also a popular fishing spot. The kids from Douglas Daly School, which I used to support, would often tell me they were going there after school to fish. I joined them once and believed I was at The Crossing but now I know I wasn't. Having driven out to it today I think they were talking about a floodway much closer to the CSIRO Station, where the school was set, as after a half hour down Oolloo Rd we still hadn't reached it and had no idea how much further it was. With no network to help, we turned back. We did see a growing number of stations in this region that have diversified their business into plantation forestry. Below is what we were looking for at the top and then what we did see.
It took us about 15 mins to pack up (that was good!) and then 3 hrs drive back to Tiwi. This time we were able to purchase some Adblue so that's one problem solved. We have learnt a lot this weekend, like double checking the fridge door is clipped before you travel or you'll meet with an unexpected surprise when you next open the door. We also  have a list of questions still to be answered and another list of things we still need to get (including that dripper for the fan). We're going to put this trip in the positive memory bank. Thanks to our friends who supported us and trust you had a relaxing time too. Appreciated all your contributions. 

This weekend's bird list:
Spangled drongo, rainbow bee-eater, Aust bustard, emu, little egret, Aust. white ibis, Magpie-lark, Leaden flycatcher, Torresian crow, Black kite, Whistling kite, Collared sparrowhawk, Blue-winged kookaburra, Black faced cuckoo-shrike, white-bellied cuckoo-shrike, Spotted harrier, Double barred finch, white naped honeyeater, Dusky honeyeater, Dollarbird, Bar-shouldered dove, Peaceful dove, Sulphur-crested cockatoo, Red-winged parrot.



Comments

  1. Looks like an interesting place for a weekend Libby. Good bird list👍

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  2. Love your blog! I am extremely impressed that you packed up in only 15 minutes!! Oops, John's very sorry he didn't think to tell you about the solution to the 15 / 10 amp problem! It was so long ago that he sorted that, back when we were with KICS in the early 90s! Looks like the firts of many wonderful caravan adventures!

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  3. What a brilliant get away with friends! Reading about about your little hiccups reminds me of our first trip with our van. For us it was the HWS. We googled lots of websites and u-tube to finally solve it. All part of the rich tapestry...

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